Cortina D’Ampezzo: Pearl of the Dolomites

Half an hour into the scenic drive from Venice’s Marco Polo Airport up to Cortina D’Ampezzo, I fell asleep. I was so tired after a red-eye flight from Asia that I could barely keep my eyes open. An hour later, my eyes were opened. And despite my drowsiness, I couldn’t close them again. The landscape outside my window was stupendous – unlike anything I had ever seen.

“Behold the Dolomites!” my local driver, Andrea, proudly introduced as we drove right into the soaring, jagged rock formations. They resembled gigantic stone fortresses that seemingly rose from a sea of pine and fir trees. The April snow was suddenly a gift because it gave me a taste of winter in this mystical place, with peaks of frosty blue blanketing in fluffy white snow.

A few minutes later, Cortina D’Ampezzo appeared amidst a basin of green fields and woods. It was picturesque, featuring houses in Swiss chalet style (completed with front gables and wide eaves) against a mountain backdrop at every turn. Their facades are decorated with wooden balconies, intricately carved ornaments, and colorful frescoes. Running through the town is a cobblestoned street – the Corso Italia – lined with chic cafes, fancy restaurants, and high-end shops. A beautiful 19th-century bell tower stands solemnly on this road, serving as the landmark of this charming town.

Historically, Cortina D’Ampezzo was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. However, the defeat in 1918 led to the annexation of the town to Italy, initially under the province of Trento. By the 1950s, Cortina D’Ampezzo was selected as the host city for the 1956 Winter Olympics due to its favorable position and proximity to the slopes. Soon after, the town became a high spot on the international ski map, attracting skiers, adventurers as well as those looking for a glamorous après-ski scene. And in two years, Cortina D’Ampezzo can re-live its glorious days when it and Milan will cohost the 2026 Winter Olympics.

The spectacular natural walls surrounding Cortina D’Ampezzo belong to the Northern Dolomites, the most feted slice of the UNESCO-inscribed mountain range. It covers an area of 53,586 hectares and contains sequences of extraordinary topographic features formed over more than 270 million years. Most are craggy pinnacles looming above massive alpine plateaux at around 2,000 meters, from the Sorapiss, the Tofane to the Cristallo.

However, the most well-known and iconic mountain group is the Tre Cime di Lavaredo. It’s a unique formation that includes three colossal rock towers jutting toward the sky. They reach up to 3,000 meters high, with slivers of snow lacing the peaks. A hike there was not possible during a snowy day. Therefore, I decided to leave all distractions behind and gaze upon Mother Nature’s best creations from a distance – a rare beauty of enormous scale.

Apart from the breathtaking peaks, the Northern Dolomites are home to a fair share of obscenely beautiful lakes. I spent an entire afternoon hopping from lake to lake, taking so many photos I was ashamed of myself. Each glittering crystal-clear lake has an individual name, and there is often legend(s) associated with it. For example, Lago di Misurina, Lago di Landro, and Lago di Dobbiaco, to name a few.

But none are as ethereal as Lago Di Braies. Nestled inside the Fanes-Sennes-Braies Natural Park, this alpine lake is best known for its turquoise-colored water circumscribed by an imposing massif. During my visit, the lake was, however, transformed into a winter wonderland featuring a thick carpet of silver snow. It was like witnessing sheer magic as I walked along the shore of the icy lake.

With gabled roofs and wide eaves, Hotel de Len can easily be mistaken for an ordinary Swiss chalet from the outside. But its unique facade featuring vertical wooden slates is the perfect overture to what is inside: minimalism meets Alpine traditions. Wood and stone, which have always been the dominant construction materials in this area, are sensibly blended with sustainable and modern elements. Much of them are unpainted or unvarnished, allowing me to experience the refreshing scent of the forest.

The Alpine heritage is also reflected through the simple yet delicious food, which largely uses fresh ingredients from the vicinity. Think of butter from nearby dairy farms or fruit jam from neighboring orchards. Even fish or main courses are rich in local flavors. Nevertheless, the dishes still feel Italian as the chef infuses them with his trademarks.

Another highlight is the rooftop spa with a gorgeous view over the valley of Cortina D’Ampezzo. Usually, such a million-dollar vista is reserved only for those who can afford a lofty suite. However, at Hotel de Len, it’s accessible for all residents (out-house guests might also use it for a fee). But the view is not the only thing this spa can offer. Guests can invigorate themselves through state-of-the-art showers, saunas, and a large open-air hot tub.

Minimalism meets Alpine traditions.